Precision Flyer Repairs
American Flyer and other S Gauge Train Repairs

Services, Rate, Payment, Packaging, and Shipping

Services, Rate, and Payment:

1. Please contact me to discuss the work you want done before shipping anything.  Please include model number (AF 3 or 5 digit) or product number (L/AF) and a description its of problems.  Thank you.  Precision Flyer Repairs is located in Reston, VA.  Full contact information is exchanged after the work to be done is confirmed. 
2. There is no limit to the number of items you can arrange with me to send and have repaired.
3. I repair and revive:
   1. American Flyer by Gilbert S-gauge trains and accessories - from tune-ups and repairs to overhauls and restorations (no painting) as well as can motor and electronic reverse unit installations.   
   2. American Flyer by Lionel, American Models, and S-Helper/MTH S-gauge trains - mechanical and electrical maintenance and repairs, however, no electronics work.

                 NOTE: No transformer, AF Casey Jones, Franklin, F9, Baldwin, hand/MOW/rocket-sled car repairs.  

1. I test my work – on the workbench as I go with a micrometer, multimeter, rollers, and the like, but more importantly on my layout when I’m done.  That’s because I want to be sure it actually works with and without a train in tow on curves, straights, turn-outs, trestles up and down, etc. and not on just a piece of test track.  My testing takes more time and effort, but I think it’s worth it to both of us in the end to get the right final results.  
2. Estimates that do not require disassembly are free.  
3. Estimates that require disassembly and cleaning are typically not free.  Examples are shown below.  If a simple fix is discovered, it will be performed as part of the process.
   1. Diesel $45 – remove shell, inspect, clean to some extent, test, and reassemble
   2. Steamer $55 – remove engine and tender shells, inspect, clean to some extent, test, and reassemble
   3. Operating accessories and rolling stock, etc. – depends on the item and condition
4. I will provide you an estimate and then confirm whether you want those repairs done or not.
   1. Every item has its own history of age, storage, use, abuse, maintenance, lack thereof, quality of repairs, and sometimes customization.  What is required to fix an engine or accessory today depends a lot on its past.  
   2. A description from you of what's wrong is requested and highly valued, however, estimates based on that alone are not provided.  To determine what an item needs requires me to see, test, and diagnose it in person.
   3. Typically with estimates over $200 I will ask for a ~33% deposit as a way to prove payment works, show good faith, and in some cases help cover the purchase of special or unique parts. (I've been stiffed before.)
   4. Not often, but sometimes an estimate is not plausible because of the need to fix things discovered during the estimate process (disassembly, testing, and diagnosis) in order to identify everything that's wrong.  Similar to solving a mystery one suspect at a time.
5. If you decide not to have repair work done, I will bill you for the estimate fee (if there is one) plus return shipping and insurance.  After you pay that I will return your item.  
6. My labor rate is $40/hour.  
7. Upon completion of my work, I will bill you for labor, parts, shipping, insurance, and new packaging if required.
8. I prefer Zelle, but also accept Venmo, PayPal, checks, and cash (local only) for payment.  I do not accept credit cards.  When I have received payment from you, I will return your item(s) or make them available to you for local pick-up. For bills not paid within 30 days, the items you sent me become my property. 
9. The following are AF labor-only guideline examples, not estimates.  
   1. Simple fix $30 – minor repair.  Little to no disassembly, cleaning, etc. required.
   2. Tune-up – shells removed, some disassembly, some simple fixes as needed, cleaning, lubrication, and testing.
      1. Single motor diesel - $75
      2. Dual motor diesel - $100
      3. Smoke in boiler steam - $90
      4. Smoke in tender steam - $140
10. Parts sourcing - some parts are readily available others require time and research to find.  Others even with research are simply no longer available.  Parts research >1 hour will be billed at my normal rate. 
11. The following are examples of AF work that can be needed in addition to a tune-up.  These are not always required, but are meant to give you an idea of what is sometimes needed to get postwar Flyer running properly again.  There are others too.
    1. Steam smoke unit -- removed, cleaned, wick and coil replaced, reassembled, and tested
    2. Steam motor front and/or rear bearing replaced
    3. Steam driver wheels reconditioned and quartered (three-piece drivers on many AF steam engines are coming apart) -- strip down to frame and drivers, remove drivers, degrease everything, disassemble drivers, clean driver components and axles; re-assemble, remount, true, gauge, and quarter all drivers, reassemble loco and test (you’d be amazed how much better they can run when this is done properly) 
    4. Diesel truck re-bushed – power unit removed, stripped down to the truck, truck and all parts cleaned, truck drilled, re-bushed, reassembled, installed, and tested 
    5. Diesel armature bearings and/or worm screw and gear replaced
    6. Engine rewiring – the original wires on some are completely shot (dried out, stiff, and cracking) and must all be removed and replaced
    7. Steam or diesel four-position or two-position reverse unit overhaul – unit removed, disassembled, cleaned, worn parts replaced, adjusted, lubricated, reassembled, and tested to perform at factory specified voltage

Packaging:

• Please pack what you're going to send me carefully, safely, and adequately to keep it unharmed throughout transit and shipping.  
• Please include a note with each item describing the problem(s) you've observed and want addressed.
• Please send complete locomotives or accessories with nothing removed or disassembled unless you already have something apart and are not comfortable putting it back together in which case make sure all the parts are also safely packed and tiny bits like screws, washers, etc. are in a snack or similarly small ziploc bag.  Do not remove the shell and send just the chassis.  With steam locomotives send the engine and tender.  With accessories send boards, barrels, mail bags, coal, etc. along with the accessory.  I need to test and return items ready-to-run.  
• Here are some packing guidelines for engines, accessories, or virtually anything you ship.
  • In the case of a steam engine, disconnect the drawbar between the tender and the engine to prevent damage during transit.  After the drawbar is detached, screw the drawbar screw back into the hole it would normally be screwed into for safe keeping.
  • If the wires between a steam engine and its tender can be easily disconnected, then disconnect them and proceed as if they were each a diesel engine.  If you can't completely separate them, disconnect the drawbar (see above), and then insert a piece of foam rubber (roughly 3" x 2-1/2" x 1-1/4") between the engine and the tender to protect them from each other.    
  • Wrap everything in plain white paper towels or cotton cloth.  Do not use printed materials or newspaper.  Print can permanently transfer to some paints.  Do not wrap anything directly in bubble wrap.  Bubble wrap can leave permanent marks on some paints. 
  • If it is a diesel engine or a completely separated steam engine/tender, you can bubble wrap it next or follow the instructions below for using cardboard and then bubble wrap it.  If it is a steam engine with its engine and tender connected read the next paragraph before bubble wrapping it.  Large diameter (~1") dimple bubble wrap provides more protection than small diameter (~1/4") dimple bubble wrap, especially for engines.  Three to four layers of large diameter bubble wrap usually offers a reasonable level of protection.  Be sure the bubble wrap is wider than your engine so you can fold it in or over, tape it closed, and create a padded bull nose on both ends.  Essentially you want to create a protective cocoon for your item.
  • If it is a steam engine with its engine and tender wired together or somehow still connected, do NOT just wrap it in soft materials like bubble wrap.  First put it securely in a cardboard roll or wrap (like Gilbert used), a three-sided cardboard tray, or four-sided cardboard shed that extends ~1.25” beyond both ends of the loco and tender and then bubble wrap that.  The cardboard cylinder, splint, or virtual box helps to provide structure, hold the loco and tender steady, prevent them from hitting each another, and the extra length helps protect the loco’s pilot and the tender's coupler during transit.
  • Place your bubble wrapped "cocoon" in an appropriately sized box.  Depending on how well protected it is by the bubble wrap you used you may want to add peanuts or other appropriate padding. Do not use something that will compress during transit such as the shredded paper from a paper shredder.
  • MAKE SURE NOTHING MOVES WHEN THE BOX GETS SHAKEN.  If something can move inside the box that can cause tremendous damage to it during transit. Repack your box so nothing moves.
  • Another suggestion is to mark several sides of your box "FRAGILE".  

Shipping:

• Please pack what you are going to ship me carefully, safely, and adequately to keep it unharmed throughout transit and shipping (see Packaging information above).
• Insure what you ship to me for an adequate and appropriate dollar value.  
• The undamaged arrival of things for me to repair is your responsibility.  If damaged in transit I will inform you, provide you photos upon request, and confer with you whether to return the item to you or proceed with its repairs.  You will need to decide whether a claim or complaint should be filed with the carrier and take care of that. 
• If your packaging is appropriate, I will reuse it to return items.  No charge for handling.
• If your packaging is not sufficient, I will enhance or replace it with something better.  There will be a cost for that depending on how much new material and work is needed – box, corrugated wrap, bubble-wrap, peanuts, packing paper, foam inserts, etc.   Please take the time and effort needed to package your items very carefully to begin with.
• I use USPS Priority Mail to ship items and insure them to an appropriate dollar value.